Bibliography

Black, J. B. (1994) The reign of Elizabeth, 1558-1603. 2nd edn. New York: Oxford University Press.

Bryer, R. (2000) The history of hair: Fashion and fantasy down the ages. London: .

Corson, R. (2001) Fashions in hair: The First Five Thousand years. 2nd edn. London: Peter Owen Publishers.

Corson, R. (2004) Fashions in makeup: From ancient to modern times. London: Peter Owen Publishers.

Elizabethan hair styles (no date) Available at: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm 

Elizabethan make-up and hairstryle insp (2015) Available at: https://ro.pinterest.com/isimonagabriela/elizabethan-make-up-and-hairstryle-insp/ .

It, W. H. (2014) We ❤ it. Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/group/1243848 .

Movieclips (2011) Elizabeth (11/11) movie CLIP - the virgin queen (1998) HD. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mnLbhHR6-g .

Portraits of Queen Elizabeth the First, part 2: Portraits 1573-1587 (no date) Available at: http://www.luminarium.org/renlit/elizface2.htm .

Portraiture of Elizabeth I of England (2015) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portraiture_of_Elizabeth_I_of_England .

RODEWALD-SULZ, W. (2011) A little art history, A little Stevie Nicks at Oscar de la Renta. Available at: http://beautyblitz.com/little-art-history-little-stevie-nicks-oscar-de-la-renta .

Ribeiro, A. (2011) Facing beauty: Painted women and cosmetic art. United States: Yale University Press.

Voluspa / Asatru (2013) Queen Elizabeth I Coronation (greatness) HD. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uapvgwQpgM .

Williams, P. (1998) The later Tudors: England 1547-1603. 1st edn. Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press.

Citations, Quotes & Annotations

Black, J. B. (1994) The reign of Elizabeth, 1558-1603. 2nd edn. New York: Oxford University Press.

(Black, 1994)

Bryer, R. (2000) The history of hair: Fashion and fantasy down the ages. London: .

(Bryer, 2000)

Corson, R. (2001) Fashions in hair: The First Five Thousand years. 2nd edn. London: Peter Owen Publishers.

(Corson, 2001)

Corson, R. (2004) Fashions in makeup: From ancient to modern times. London: Peter Owen Publishers.

(Corson, 2004)

Elizabethan hair styles (no date) Available at: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm .

(Elizabethan hair styles, no date)

Elizabethan make-up and hairstryle insp (2015) Available at: https://ro.pinterest.com/isimonagabriela/elizabethan-make-up-and-hairstryle-insp/ .

(Elizabethan make-up and hairstryle insp, 2015)

It, W. H. (2014) We ❤ it. Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/group/1243848 .

(It, 2014)

Movieclips (2011) Elizabeth (11/11) movie CLIP - the virgin queen (1998) HD. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mnLbhHR6-g .

(Movieclips, 2011)

Portraits of Queen Elizabeth the First, part 2: Portraits 1573-1587 (no date) Available at: http://www.luminarium.org/renlit/elizface2.htm .

(Portraits of Queen Elizabeth the First, part 2: Portraits 1573-1587, no date)

Portraiture of Elizabeth I of England (2015) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portraiture_of_Elizabeth_I_of_England .

(Portraiture of Elizabeth I of England, 2015)

RODEWALD-SULZ, W. (2011) A little art history, A little Stevie Nicks at Oscar de la Renta. Available at: http://beautyblitz.com/little-art-history-little-stevie-nicks-oscar-de-la-renta .

(RODEWALD-SULZ, 2011)

Ribeiro, A. (2011) Facing beauty: Painted women and cosmetic art. United States: Yale University Press.

(Ribeiro, 2011)

Voluspa / Asatru (2013) Queen Elizabeth I Coronation (greatness) HD. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uapvgwQpgM .

(Voluspa / Asatru, 2013)

Williams, P. (1998) The later Tudors: England 1547-1603. 1st edn. Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press.

(Williams, 1998)

FINAL hair design - Idea 3

I must say that this is my final final final hair design, and I want to bring this one to my partner. I feel like this is the best of all and that incorporates almost all the techniques learnt in this semester (padding, crimping, backcombing, plaiting) and requires a little extra - adding hair extensions.
I have explained in the first post about the first hair design that for this Elizabethan inspired design I want lots of volume, many techniques and something to stand out, something dramatic, to suit the make-up design aswell.
 I don't really know if I'm going to do the same hairstyle when having the make-up assessment, because the make-up one starts at 9.00 AM and the studio isn't open before, but I'll try to do something similar by myself, at home, even if I'm really the worst person at doing my own hair.
I realise that this is a complicated hairstyle and it requires lots of practice and patience, but I am confident that Taylor can do it. Maybe I wouldn't choose such a difficult one if I didn't think that she can do it, but I find her really talented and I think that this challenge will help her a lot. I refer to this last hairstyle as a challenge because if I were to do it at the assessment, it would be a challenge for me too.
For this design I'll keep the rounded front and the plaits on the sides, but I'll replace the crimped fluffy rest of the hair with big, voluminous curls.
My hair is not either thick or long, and it's really hard to give volume to it if you don't crimp or backcomb. Because of my thin hair, I am going to add a hair rat in the front. No matter how much it will be backcombed it will never be the shape and the height I want without a bit of help. To add lenght, I will add hair extension in the back section, because I really want long and voluminous curls, and I know that when you curl the hair you loose lenght, despite of how long is your hair.

Here are the images that inspired me the most:


Historical:

1606 - Painting by Robert Peake the Elder (British, active by 1576, died 1619)

 of Princess Elizabeth (1596–1662), Later Queen of Bohemia

Love the big, round shaped hair of this lady.

Isaac Oliver, Queen Elizabeth I, The Rainbow Portrait, 1600

I find this portrait of Elizabeth really inspirational because of the loose curled hair that she had. Sleek, round shaped front, loose curled hair at the back, this is what I want.

Modern:

The front part could be just as big as it is in the above photo, or maybe bigger.

I want the crimped plaits to have volume and to meet in the back, more precisely, in the middle part of the section.

I want my final design to look similar to this bautiful bridal hairstyle, but without those hairs that seem to "hold" the little crown and with crimped plaites on the sides.

So, to recap:

Front - padded, sleek, round shaped hair in the front section. Big, with hair rat added.
Sides - crimped french plaits. Voluminous.
Back, the rest of the hair - curled hair. Big curls, hair extensions added.


My final facecharts:

Step by step to achieve the hairstyle:

KEY

Bold - instructions

Text – additional information

1)      To begin with brush through all of the hair and check for any abmnormalities;

2)      Section the hair in three pieces:

•         front - which should have a medium density, so you will be able to plait a small French plait, backcomb and cover the hair rat;
•         middle - which should have a reduced density, but still enough hair so you could crimp and plait to obtain a voluminous effect;
•              back - which should have a high density, so you can hide the hair extensions through it;

3)      Pin the other pieces of hair leaving the back section, so you can clearly work at it;

4)      Start backcombing the back section, where you want to add the hair extensions and then place them as close to the roots as possible, so their clips will be completely hidden;

5)      Brush the back section so the extensions and the natural hair mix together;

6)      Curl the back section, using a large curling iron. After you curl a piece of hair, pin it and add hair spray on it so the resulted curls will be voluminous but tight. Leave the curls pinned until you finish doing the front and the middle sections, and unpin them afterwards;

7)      Start working on the front section. French plait at the root and then backcomb a little so you’ll be able to hide and fix the hair rat into the hair. To hide and fix the hair rat, simply roll the backcombed hair on it, until it reaches the French plait, and then fix it inserting pins into it and into the French plait. For this design the front should be really high, round shaped and sleek;

8)      After you have finished the front, start working at the middle section. Crimp the whole middle section of hair using a medium sized crimper (you are allowed to do this before the timed assessment if you wish to) and then French plait away both sides starting from the ears, until they meet in the middle of the head. Clamp both plaits in the middle with a hair elastic and then curl the hair ends using the same curling iron that you have used for the curls;

9)      Once the front and the middle sections are ready, unpin each curl and slightly brush them with your fingers or with a comb, but be careful not to untighten them too much;

10)  Add self adhesive gems into the crimped French plaits that you have created and spray the whole hair, retouching what needs to be retouched and then the hairstyle is complete.

Final hair design - Idea 2

I really liked the first design idea and I didn't want to change it completely. I mean, more like in terms of structure, like sectioning etc. But instead of the heart-shaped front I have opted for a round one because I liked this more and I thought that it will be less time consuming. I have also added crimped french plaits on the sides of the design because I felt like I didn't incorporate so many techniques that we've learnt in the first design and it looked better.

Here are some images that I found inspirational for my look:


Historical:

Another version of the Armada Portrait attributed to George Gower, c.1588

Queen Elizabeth I (1533–1603), English School, circa 1592. A half-length portrait of the Queen wearing a richly embroidered and jewelled dress with elaborate lace ruff and collar. She has a 'moon-jewel' in her hair. The painting is possibly derived from Isaac Oliver's miniature of the ageing Queen.

You can clearly see the round-shaped curly or crimped hair that the Queen has in those portraits. I would love how it will look with a sleek texture and crimped french plaits on the sides.

1606 - Painting by Robert Peake the Elder (British, active by 1576, died 1619)

 of Princess Elizabeth (1596–1662), Later Queen of Bohemia

There were also other important figures that adopted this round big, round shaped hair in the front. The best example is the latest portrait, the one with the Queen of Bohemia, which seemed to have really big, round shaped hair in the front, but with a sleek texture instead of a curled one. 

Modern:

Elizabethan inspired round-shaped hair.

Imagine these crimped braids on the sides with that sleek round shaped hair in the front and the crimped fluffly rest of the hair. Lovely!

My hairchart:

Final hair design - Idea 1

My first idea for my design was to create something big, really voluminous, both in the front and in the back. My final make-up design is something dramatic, something that stands out, and it's Lettice Knollys's modern adaptation so I supposed that she wanted to copy the queen in terms of styling her hair, doing her make-up etc, because she wanted to be like her. I also wanted two kinds of textures in my design, or maybe three, and to incorporate majority of the techniques that we have learnt in the class.
I decided that a big, heart-shaped and sleek front part will suit my preferences, but I didn't know, at first, what to do with the rest of the hair, because it was clear for me that I want to section it so I can add as much textures as I could.
After some more research, I have opted to leave the rest of the hair straight and crimped, and just a little bit fluffed out to add more volume at the roots.

Here are some images that I found inspirational for my look:


Historical:

Elizabeth I (Armada Portrait).

1592 Queen Elizabeth I 1533-1603 with a Fan, Unknown Artist

The beauty of Queen's Elizabeth heart-shaped hair cannot be forgotten. This inspires me for my design. Replacing the curly texture with a sleek one will make it more contemporary.

Lettice Knollys as Countess of Leicester, c. 1585 by George Gower

And it seems like Lettice was keeping up with the Queen's hairstyles. Was she really trying that hard to steal Robert Dudley's heart by looking like the love of his life, the Queen, or was just keeping up with the latest trends? Perhaps we'll never know. But she certainly looked wonderful, just as Elizabeth. In the end, it's her cousin!

Modern:

This photo it's exactly how I want my design to look in the front. And it's extremely beautiful!

And with the rest of her hair looking like that, I think that it will look amazing.

My hairchart:

Frizzing/rick-racking - Week 3

Today at we looked at images with Elizabethan and modern hairstyles and we discussed about them, about the technique that the hairstylists used to do the models hair that way, about what products and tools did they use and what we can use to achieve that look too. Helen showed us how to frizz and crimp the hair with a straightener and some hair pins and then we had to do the same on our Kate heads. This technique is called rick-racking and requires a lot of time and patience.
Here are just two photos of my finished look (Kate had her head tight back) because I forgot to take photos with the hair still in the pins:

Fortunately, I've found a whole story about the process of rick-racking and I thought that it could be useful to add some of the photos here, especially because I didn't take photos of my own process.

http://beautyblitz.com/little-art-history-little-stevie-nicks-oscar-de-la-renta

Research - How Elizabethans used to adorn their hair - Week 2

Elizabethan women used to adorn their hair to show that they are distinct from others and to show their status. They were inspired by the Queen and liked to add pearls, precious stones, feathers, hats, veils, coifs or cauls, or a crown, in the Queen's case. Here are some examples of both historical and modern portraits and photos which show how women incorporated adornments into their hairstyles. 

"Elizabethan London showed a strange resemblance to renaissance Venice in regard to feminine fashions. In both places it was the custom to expose the breasts freely, to paint the face and to dye the hair, "almost changing the accidents into the substance". Apparently, too, the stylish women of England followed their Italian sisters in the quest for the blond, and were not above inveigling children with golden locks to part with them for a penny. On the edge of their "bolstered" hair they hung "bugles", "ouches", "rings", and other ornaments of silver and gold; and across their foreheads were laid, from temple to temple, a gilded or silvered fillet."


Historical images: drawings and portraits

Queen Elizabeth I (1533–1603), English School, circa 1592. A half-length portrait of the Queen wearing a richly embroidered and jewelled dress with elaborate lace ruff and collar. She has a 'moon-jewel' in her hair. The painting is possibly derived from Isaac Oliver's miniature of the ageing Queen.

1606 - Painting by Robert Peake the Elder (British, active by 1576, died 1619)

 of Princess Elizabeth (1596–1662), Later Queen of Bohemia

Amazing Elizabethan hood on Etsy by CadwaladrCostumes

Queen Elizabeth I (Cate Blanchett) 'Elizabeth: The Golden Age' 2007. 

Costume designed by Alexandra Byrne.

Purchased by Queen Mary c. 1860-70, Gold, Colombian emerald, enamel, diamonds, woven material, possibly hair, behind the emerald. 

The centre stone may have once been owned by Queen Elizabeth I. 9 x 3.7 cm

Ann Boleyn , 1505-36. 

Drawing by Holbein the Younger.

Young woman with plucked eyebrows and shaved hairline.

 Drawing by Urs Graf, 1518.

Claudia of Beaune. School of Clouet, 1568.

 The eyebrows are plucked and the hairline is shaved.

"The Elizabethan fashion dictated that the head was adorned with a hat, veil, coif or caul. This fashion therefore ensured that much of the hair was hidden by some form of head coverings. The style of the head covering dictated the hairstyle. Many of the hats were adorned with feathers, pearls, glass jewels, spangles, gold thread, embroidery and lace.

• The Coif - The coif ( commonly referred to as the 'biggin' ) worn by all children. Material was plain white linen, a close fitting cap tied under the chin. Coifs were often worn as caps to keep hair in place under more elaborate hats;
• The French hood - Introduced from the French court by Anne Boleyn, the mother of Queen Elizabeth I. A half moon, or crescent, style band or brim sloping away from the face. The edges were often adorned with pearls or glass jewels, called bilaments, and a veil covered the back of the hair;
• The Atifet - Similar to the French hood style but with a heart shaped crescent - favoured in white by Mary Queen of Scots. Lace trimmnigs were added;
• The Caul - Cauls were the Elizabethan hair net. A Caul covered the hair at the back of the head and was made of fabric, or fabric covered by netted cord which was sometimes adorned with spangles;
• The Pillbox style of hat - often had a veil attached to the back."

Modern, Elizabethan inspired images:

Virginia Kiss in “Misty Dream” by Joanna Kustra for Factice Magazine

Hellizabeth || Modern interpretation of 16th century fashion.

Givenchy haute couture f/w 1998

Chanel pre-Fall 2013

Liza Espinoza. NAHA

#NAHA2015 Master Hairstylist of the Year Finalist, Dusty Simington

Queen Elizabeth I - Caity by Katriena Emmanuel; costume and styling by Shieltz Calamba

December 2013 Vogue

Regal Impression by Errol Douglas

Avantgarde - Hair: Jose Siero Leal @ Sile Peluqueros Photo: Javier Galue via Lorriet | cynthia reccord

 @ Alexander McQueen Fall 2015

Chunky Medieval Fashion - Harper's Bazaar Vietnam 'Nu Renaissance Aristocracy' is Fit for Royalty (GALLERY)

Frida Gustavsson backstage at Alexander McQueen Fall 2013

Balenciaga Paris Spring 2006

Louis Loizides Mitsu - Marianna Neophytou @ Modelpro - makeup Anastasia Stacie

Lorena Agnelli, photographer unknown. Corset and skirt: Vivienne Westwood Gold Label / Crown: Slim Barrett / Jewellery: Marni, Louis Vuitton, Temperley London, Pebble London, Links of London

Karen Elson as Elizabeth I - Face Forward by Kevyn Aucoin, 2000

Sources:

1. Black, J. B. (1994) The reign of Elizabeth, 1558-1603. 2nd edn. New York: Oxford University Press.
2. Corson, R. (2001) Fashions in hair: The First Five Thousand years. 2nd edn. London: Peter Owen Publishers.
3. Elizabethan hair styles (no date) Available at: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm .
4. Elizabethan make-up and hairstryle insp (2015) Available at: https://ro.pinterest.com/isimonagabriela/elizabethan-make-up-and-hairstryle-insp/ .