Research - How Elizabethans used to adorn their hair - Week 2

Elizabethan women used to adorn their hair to show that they are distinct from others and to show their status. They were inspired by the Queen and liked to add pearls, precious stones, feathers, hats, veils, coifs or cauls, or a crown, in the Queen's case. Here are some examples of both historical and modern portraits and photos which show how women incorporated adornments into their hairstyles. 

"Elizabethan London showed a strange resemblance to renaissance Venice in regard to feminine fashions. In both places it was the custom to expose the breasts freely, to paint the face and to dye the hair, "almost changing the accidents into the substance". Apparently, too, the stylish women of England followed their Italian sisters in the quest for the blond, and were not above inveigling children with golden locks to part with them for a penny. On the edge of their "bolstered" hair they hung "bugles", "ouches", "rings", and other ornaments of silver and gold; and across their foreheads were laid, from temple to temple, a gilded or silvered fillet."


Historical images: drawings and portraits

Queen Elizabeth I (1533–1603), English School, circa 1592. A half-length portrait of the Queen wearing a richly embroidered and jewelled dress with elaborate lace ruff and collar. She has a 'moon-jewel' in her hair. The painting is possibly derived from Isaac Oliver's miniature of the ageing Queen.

1606 - Painting by Robert Peake the Elder (British, active by 1576, died 1619)

 of Princess Elizabeth (1596–1662), Later Queen of Bohemia

Amazing Elizabethan hood on Etsy by CadwaladrCostumes

Queen Elizabeth I (Cate Blanchett) 'Elizabeth: The Golden Age' 2007. 

Costume designed by Alexandra Byrne.

Purchased by Queen Mary c. 1860-70, Gold, Colombian emerald, enamel, diamonds, woven material, possibly hair, behind the emerald. 

The centre stone may have once been owned by Queen Elizabeth I. 9 x 3.7 cm

Ann Boleyn , 1505-36. 

Drawing by Holbein the Younger.

Young woman with plucked eyebrows and shaved hairline.

 Drawing by Urs Graf, 1518.

Claudia of Beaune. School of Clouet, 1568.

 The eyebrows are plucked and the hairline is shaved.

"The Elizabethan fashion dictated that the head was adorned with a hat, veil, coif or caul. This fashion therefore ensured that much of the hair was hidden by some form of head coverings. The style of the head covering dictated the hairstyle. Many of the hats were adorned with feathers, pearls, glass jewels, spangles, gold thread, embroidery and lace.

• The Coif - The coif ( commonly referred to as the 'biggin' ) worn by all children. Material was plain white linen, a close fitting cap tied under the chin. Coifs were often worn as caps to keep hair in place under more elaborate hats;
• The French hood - Introduced from the French court by Anne Boleyn, the mother of Queen Elizabeth I. A half moon, or crescent, style band or brim sloping away from the face. The edges were often adorned with pearls or glass jewels, called bilaments, and a veil covered the back of the hair;
• The Atifet - Similar to the French hood style but with a heart shaped crescent - favoured in white by Mary Queen of Scots. Lace trimmnigs were added;
• The Caul - Cauls were the Elizabethan hair net. A Caul covered the hair at the back of the head and was made of fabric, or fabric covered by netted cord which was sometimes adorned with spangles;
• The Pillbox style of hat - often had a veil attached to the back."

Modern, Elizabethan inspired images:

Virginia Kiss in “Misty Dream” by Joanna Kustra for Factice Magazine

Hellizabeth || Modern interpretation of 16th century fashion.

Givenchy haute couture f/w 1998

Chanel pre-Fall 2013

Liza Espinoza. NAHA

#NAHA2015 Master Hairstylist of the Year Finalist, Dusty Simington

Queen Elizabeth I - Caity by Katriena Emmanuel; costume and styling by Shieltz Calamba

December 2013 Vogue

Regal Impression by Errol Douglas

Avantgarde - Hair: Jose Siero Leal @ Sile Peluqueros Photo: Javier Galue via Lorriet | cynthia reccord

 @ Alexander McQueen Fall 2015

Chunky Medieval Fashion - Harper's Bazaar Vietnam 'Nu Renaissance Aristocracy' is Fit for Royalty (GALLERY)

Frida Gustavsson backstage at Alexander McQueen Fall 2013

Balenciaga Paris Spring 2006

Louis Loizides Mitsu - Marianna Neophytou @ Modelpro - makeup Anastasia Stacie

Lorena Agnelli, photographer unknown. Corset and skirt: Vivienne Westwood Gold Label / Crown: Slim Barrett / Jewellery: Marni, Louis Vuitton, Temperley London, Pebble London, Links of London

Karen Elson as Elizabeth I - Face Forward by Kevyn Aucoin, 2000

Sources:

1. Black, J. B. (1994) The reign of Elizabeth, 1558-1603. 2nd edn. New York: Oxford University Press.
2. Corson, R. (2001) Fashions in hair: The First Five Thousand years. 2nd edn. London: Peter Owen Publishers.
3. Elizabethan hair styles (no date) Available at: http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-hair-styles.htm .
4. Elizabethan make-up and hairstryle insp (2015) Available at: https://ro.pinterest.com/isimonagabriela/elizabethan-make-up-and-hairstryle-insp/ .